ESCOPICA
Escópica, casa de visión
Colima 138, Roma Nte
Cuauhtémoc
Ciudad de México
México
Owners Javier and Diego Graue Moreno
Escópica, casa de visión is a very fascinating place, the structure itself that hosts it maintains the flavor of times gone by and the space you created has various rooms furnished with gusto, in which it seems that nothing has been left to chance. How was this very special store born?
Escópica was born more than a decade ago. Actually, contrary to general belief, we believe it has grown on us through these years much like a child. It hasn’t been static, or classic since its origin. Slowly we have added some elements that really make sense to us but in essence the space hasn’t changed much. Maybe that is the classic aspect of it. All the things inside are truly from a living house, hence the feeling of coziness. We always knew we wanted to create a safe space where we can receive our friends over and offer the best possible experience in what the term vision represents. That is why our actual name is Escópica, casa de visión. Which means house of vision. At casa we can nurture our pleasures.
Escópica was born more than a decade ago. Actually, contrary to general belief, we believe it has grown on us through these years much like a child. It hasn’t been static, or classic since its origin. Slowly we have added some elements that really make sense to us but in essence the space hasn’t changed much. Maybe that is the classic aspect of it. All the things inside are truly from a living house, hence the feeling of coziness. We always knew we wanted to create a safe space where we can receive our friends over and offer the best possible experience in what the term vision represents. That is why our actual name is Escópica, casa de visión. Which means house of vision. At casa we can nurture our pleasures.
You are two brothers, what is your personal background and what instead pushed you to carry on a family tradition that dates back to the 19th century?
There is a saying that goes: ‘la sangre llama’ and this may be the case for us. We come from a family where Ophthalmology has been almost mandatory (fourth generation & on-going), nonetheless, us Javier & Diego had different urges and interests and somehow we are pulling out something different and new for the family. An Optical shop was something kind of unthinkable for us until we understood that there were other ways into the field of vision, still preserving maximum excellence in our proposal.
Who took care of the interior furnishings of Escópica and what are its peculiarities?
All the furnishings at Escópica are super meaningful for us, highly personal. For instance, our record player, which has been playing for more than a decade on a daily basis, was from our paternal grandparents. We remember Sundays at casa de los abuelos playing classical Mahler’s second symphony of the great operas by Caruso, or the couple of Wassily leather tobacco chairs inherited from our mother. There is also Juanito, our old carpenter, who we are very fond of; he is our right hand for the execution of the ideas and the design of our wooden handmade exhibition furniture, library, floors, etc.
There are art and design books, magazines, objects that look like ‘souvenirs de voyage’ or family memories, a globe, magnifying glasses, I think I even spotted a book on American birds. What were the inputs and the sources of inspiration, what is the idea that characterises the concept of Escópica?
Escópica is actually a complex term in origin. We borrow it in the context of lacanian psychoanalysis in the sense that through looking, through vision we constitute ourselves, that is why every object in the house, every magazine, every book, music, etc. every source of inspiration has come earlier in our development and is part and actually constitutes us as escópica. We are made out of these things. These things constitute our desires. There is joy and intention that lives within these things. First in the imaginary-real sense, creating a real space, hopefully to give birth to what represents escópica symbolically in our greater public, the others that see us.
There is a saying that goes: ‘la sangre llama’ and this may be the case for us. We come from a family where Ophthalmology has been almost mandatory (fourth generation & on-going), nonetheless, us Javier & Diego had different urges and interests and somehow we are pulling out something different and new for the family. An Optical shop was something kind of unthinkable for us until we understood that there were other ways into the field of vision, still preserving maximum excellence in our proposal.
Who took care of the interior furnishings of Escópica and what are its peculiarities?
All the furnishings at Escópica are super meaningful for us, highly personal. For instance, our record player, which has been playing for more than a decade on a daily basis, was from our paternal grandparents. We remember Sundays at casa de los abuelos playing classical Mahler’s second symphony of the great operas by Caruso, or the couple of Wassily leather tobacco chairs inherited from our mother. There is also Juanito, our old carpenter, who we are very fond of; he is our right hand for the execution of the ideas and the design of our wooden handmade exhibition furniture, library, floors, etc.
There are art and design books, magazines, objects that look like ‘souvenirs de voyage’ or family memories, a globe, magnifying glasses, I think I even spotted a book on American birds. What were the inputs and the sources of inspiration, what is the idea that characterises the concept of Escópica?
Escópica is actually a complex term in origin. We borrow it in the context of lacanian psychoanalysis in the sense that through looking, through vision we constitute ourselves, that is why every object in the house, every magazine, every book, music, etc. every source of inspiration has come earlier in our development and is part and actually constitutes us as escópica. We are made out of these things. These things constitute our desires. There is joy and intention that lives within these things. First in the imaginary-real sense, creating a real space, hopefully to give birth to what represents escópica symbolically in our greater public, the others that see us.
What do you want to tell and what is the message you convey to those who come to visit you?
We have a style and philosophy to which we strive to remain faithful despite everything happening out there. We believe that this consistency in our identity is a message to our clients: they can trust us. Trust in the selection we made for them, in the optical work we adapt to their needs, in fair trade that extends from the production of the brands we represent to the purchase they make in-store. This generates long-lasting, transgenerational relationships, and we want to represent that for our clients.
Other passions besides optics… el cine por ejemplo ;-)?
We have many passions! Javier is a psychologist and is very dedicated to his practice. Additionally, since college, he has been an enthusiast of drawing and sculpture. His approach to psychoanalysis has allowed him to enjoy and understand art from a wonderful depth. Diego studied Film, and for years he has combined his passion for optics with life on set. His most recent film, “Stolen Vacation,” can be seen on Netflix worldwide.
We have a style and philosophy to which we strive to remain faithful despite everything happening out there. We believe that this consistency in our identity is a message to our clients: they can trust us. Trust in the selection we made for them, in the optical work we adapt to their needs, in fair trade that extends from the production of the brands we represent to the purchase they make in-store. This generates long-lasting, transgenerational relationships, and we want to represent that for our clients.
Other passions besides optics… el cine por ejemplo ;-)?
We have many passions! Javier is a psychologist and is very dedicated to his practice. Additionally, since college, he has been an enthusiast of drawing and sculpture. His approach to psychoanalysis has allowed him to enjoy and understand art from a wonderful depth. Diego studied Film, and for years he has combined his passion for optics with life on set. His most recent film, “Stolen Vacation,” can be seen on Netflix worldwide.
Read more on the hard copy
NORTH OPTICAL
68 Washington Ave
Portland
Maine 04101
USA
Owner Chris Wheaton
The first thing I’d like to ask you is about your background and the path that led you to be an optician who deal with glasses far from the rules of the mass market.
One thing to know about me is my interest can easily shift towards obsession. Eyewear is no exception, to such a degree that I dropped out of college to complete an apprenticeship. My love and dedication to independent eyewear was solidified through my discovery of the Luxury Eyewear Forum in addition to my first experience at Vision Expo/LOFT in New York. I knew it was something I wanted to do for the rest of my life, and began working towards my goal of opening a store dedicated to independent collections. Upon the completion of my apprenticeship I transitioned to a boutique role at Eye Q Optical in Cambridge, Massachusetts. I met Andrew in Boston while he was working in luxury men’s wear. Coincidentally, we both found ourselves in Maine. At the time, I was looking to open my own business. Given Andrew’s creative eye, we worked together to curate a brand identity.
He later came on board full time in 2022 as North Optical’s Creative Director. Both of us have always been attracted to finding things off the beaten path, whether that’s music, art, clothing, or coffee. Reflecting on the last 15 years, it is only natural that we found ourselves here.
When was your shop opened? Why did you choose the name North Optical? What does the word ‘north’ represent for you?
North Optical opened in November of 2018. My family moved from the deep south to Connecticut when I was very young. I then lived in Boston before settling down in Maine with my wife and family. Representation of the name stems from this idea that life is a journey and sometimes the direction of your life just looks different than you would ever think. My path has always been further ‘North’.
Who took care of the interior design and what are the peculiarities of the spaces?
We did all the design ourselves with the aid of Andrew’s partner Jordan Shaw. We also teamed up with our friends and furniture makers Nondas and Melissa of Studio 89. Andrew was instrumental in finding the new space, which was in rough shape at the start of our lease. It needed a lot of work but he was confident in the vision and really leaned into transforming it into the beautiful shop we have now. It was all hands on deck with mine and Andrew’s family pitching in to get things up and running. As you glide through the shop, you’ll discover subtle New England tones that blend with mid century modern elements. The contrasting cream and navy walls are complemented by the accents of white pine furniture, marble and wood floors, and thin black metal accents.
We did all the design ourselves with the aid of Andrew’s partner Jordan Shaw. We also teamed up with our friends and furniture makers Nondas and Melissa of Studio 89. Andrew was instrumental in finding the new space, which was in rough shape at the start of our lease. It needed a lot of work but he was confident in the vision and really leaned into transforming it into the beautiful shop we have now. It was all hands on deck with mine and Andrew’s family pitching in to get things up and running. As you glide through the shop, you’ll discover subtle New England tones that blend with mid century modern elements. The contrasting cream and navy walls are complemented by the accents of white pine furniture, marble and wood floors, and thin black metal accents.
What is your philosophy and work approach?
Consistency and quality have gone into every decision I’ve made for the business. We don’t market gimmicky sales in order to drive business. America has a big ‘sale’ culture that I don’t believe in. The price reflects the product you are buying, and we do our best to price fairly. I am really grateful to my team. Our culture is to prioritize the experience over the purchase. Our goal is to make the process approachable. We have designed the store where nothing is locked or under glass. Frames are tactile, we want our guests to feel like they can play.
What should a frame represent for the person who wears it?
A frame should be a reflection of who you are. We’ve observed that limiting an individual to a frame based on their face shape is an odd quirk of the American optical market. Rather than adhere to an arbitrary rule, we encourage our clients to be curious when trying things on. After all, people evolve and change, let’s do it together.
What do you want to convey to your customers, what is the message you want them to take with themselves when they leave your store?
I want our guests to discover something new, whether that’s an eyewear designer or one of our featured artists. Our goal is to push the envelope with one’s experience in an optical shop and change the expectation of what an optical shop can be.
Consistency and quality have gone into every decision I’ve made for the business. We don’t market gimmicky sales in order to drive business. America has a big ‘sale’ culture that I don’t believe in. The price reflects the product you are buying, and we do our best to price fairly. I am really grateful to my team. Our culture is to prioritize the experience over the purchase. Our goal is to make the process approachable. We have designed the store where nothing is locked or under glass. Frames are tactile, we want our guests to feel like they can play.
What should a frame represent for the person who wears it?
A frame should be a reflection of who you are. We’ve observed that limiting an individual to a frame based on their face shape is an odd quirk of the American optical market. Rather than adhere to an arbitrary rule, we encourage our clients to be curious when trying things on. After all, people evolve and change, let’s do it together.
What do you want to convey to your customers, what is the message you want them to take with themselves when they leave your store?
I want our guests to discover something new, whether that’s an eyewear designer or one of our featured artists. Our goal is to push the envelope with one’s experience in an optical shop and change the expectation of what an optical shop can be.
MR. TORTOISE
London
57a Brewer St.
London W1F 9UL
United Kingdom
THESSALONIKI
P. Mela 29,
Thessaloniki 546 22
Greece
Owner Grigorios Karypidis
Owner Chris Wheaton
I find the idea of Mr. Tortoise very interesting and also quite unique: you created two very similar worlds that speak the same language in two different parts of the world, London and Thessaloniki. Why did you choose these two cities?
Thessaloniki is my home town, the city I grew up. That’s where it all started. London was the dream place to be. The most unique city in Europe. London is an inspiration to me.
Thessaloniki is my home town, the city I grew up. That’s where it all started. London was the dream place to be. The most unique city in Europe. London is an inspiration to me.
What are the peculiarities of the two stores and what are the concept and the philosophy of Mr. Tortoise?
Both stores sell unique handmade frames from independent designers. The store in Thessaloniki is a bit more approachable in prices and has a variety of products. The store in London is a unique high-end boutique specializing only in the highest level of craftsmanship.
When was Mr. Tortoise born and why such a particular name?
Mr.Tortoise was born in 2013 in Greece. The name refers to the history of making glasses out of tortoise shell. I always had a love for tortoise shell glasses.
Both stores sell unique handmade frames from independent designers. The store in Thessaloniki is a bit more approachable in prices and has a variety of products. The store in London is a unique high-end boutique specializing only in the highest level of craftsmanship.
When was Mr. Tortoise born and why such a particular name?
Mr.Tortoise was born in 2013 in Greece. The name refers to the history of making glasses out of tortoise shell. I always had a love for tortoise shell glasses.
It is clear that you have a very precise idea about your project and both your stores reflect a timeless luxury, who conceived and took care of the interior design?
The interior design of the Greek store was made by Efrosini Tsilika and the store in London by Urban Soul Project.
I like the philosophy of choosing a few but right collections. I personally know the ones you deal with quite well and I love them. Is there room for something else or do you have another one in mind to include?
There is always room for something special if I decide that it matches our style and quality standards.
The interior design of the Greek store was made by Efrosini Tsilika and the store in London by Urban Soul Project.
I like the philosophy of choosing a few but right collections. I personally know the ones you deal with quite well and I love them. Is there room for something else or do you have another one in mind to include?
There is always room for something special if I decide that it matches our style and quality standards.
How much have your origins, your travels, your life path influenced and continue to influence your professional choices?
Travelling was a main factor, I have travelled all around the world and that gave me a lot of inspiration. I also studied in England and France in the past. That was also a main factor that changed me as a person.
Fairs, agents, personal research. How important is all this to you?
It’s very important to attend the fairs but also you need the right contacts and connections.
What must a frame represent for the person who wears it.
A frame needs to match the personality of the person who wears it. It has to be the extension of our personality. When I choose frame for someone I try to match his dressing style and his character.
Travelling was a main factor, I have travelled all around the world and that gave me a lot of inspiration. I also studied in England and France in the past. That was also a main factor that changed me as a person.
Fairs, agents, personal research. How important is all this to you?
It’s very important to attend the fairs but also you need the right contacts and connections.
What must a frame represent for the person who wears it.
A frame needs to match the personality of the person who wears it. It has to be the extension of our personality. When I choose frame for someone I try to match his dressing style and his character.
RAISE YOUR GLASSES
1345 S Michigan Ave
Chicago – IL 60605
USA
Owner Eddye Harris
When did you open Raise Your Glasses and what path led you to this choice? What is your background?
Raise Your Glasses (RYG) opened on October 3rd, 2022. The journey to launching RYG was a natural evolution for me. From a young age, I was driven by the desire to own my own business. It wasn’t until adulthood that I realized my unconventional approach didn’t align with the traditional 9-to-5 mindset. In hindsight, I see this path not as a conscious choice but as destiny. As a teenager, joining the military introduced me to a structured environment and diverse ways of life. It also sparked the question: “What can I do to create change?” I served as a medic in a combat arms unit in the U.S. Army, and later pursued education to become an optician. One challenge I encountered was getting soldiers to wear their standard-issue glasses, colloquially called “BCGs” (Birth Control Glasses) because they were notoriously unflattering. I began hand-tinting these glasses to make them more fashionable, which made soldiers feel more confident wearing them. This experience taught me the power of blending fashion with functionality. Throughout my career in radiology and cardiology, I deepened my understanding of how the human body works as an interconnected system, which emphasized the importance of eye health.
What an unusual name you gave to your store, why?
The name “Raise Your Glasses” was chosen because it serves as a double entendre. It reflects both the idea of elevating the standards for eyewear and the celebratory act of raising a glass during a toast. It’s a name that evokes a smile and a sense of accomplishment, uniting cultures through this shared ritual.
What are the concept and the philosophy behind Raise Your Glasses?
The concept behind RYG is to disrupt the conventional perception of eyewear as boring or stressful. My philosophy is that eyewear should be a form of self-expression – just as unique and special as a smile. RYG is designed as a space where the selection process is highly curated, and where the relationship with the client continues well beyond their initial purchase, accompanying them on their journey in the optical world.
Raise Your Glasses (RYG) opened on October 3rd, 2022. The journey to launching RYG was a natural evolution for me. From a young age, I was driven by the desire to own my own business. It wasn’t until adulthood that I realized my unconventional approach didn’t align with the traditional 9-to-5 mindset. In hindsight, I see this path not as a conscious choice but as destiny. As a teenager, joining the military introduced me to a structured environment and diverse ways of life. It also sparked the question: “What can I do to create change?” I served as a medic in a combat arms unit in the U.S. Army, and later pursued education to become an optician. One challenge I encountered was getting soldiers to wear their standard-issue glasses, colloquially called “BCGs” (Birth Control Glasses) because they were notoriously unflattering. I began hand-tinting these glasses to make them more fashionable, which made soldiers feel more confident wearing them. This experience taught me the power of blending fashion with functionality. Throughout my career in radiology and cardiology, I deepened my understanding of how the human body works as an interconnected system, which emphasized the importance of eye health.
What an unusual name you gave to your store, why?
The name “Raise Your Glasses” was chosen because it serves as a double entendre. It reflects both the idea of elevating the standards for eyewear and the celebratory act of raising a glass during a toast. It’s a name that evokes a smile and a sense of accomplishment, uniting cultures through this shared ritual.
What are the concept and the philosophy behind Raise Your Glasses?
The concept behind RYG is to disrupt the conventional perception of eyewear as boring or stressful. My philosophy is that eyewear should be a form of self-expression – just as unique and special as a smile. RYG is designed as a space where the selection process is highly curated, and where the relationship with the client continues well beyond their initial purchase, accompanying them on their journey in the optical world.
What does a store like yours represent, with such a careful and precise selection in the collections chosen, in a city like Chicago?
A store like RYG stands for the uniqueness and distinction of independent eyewear brands, focusing on both fashion and functionality. It represents an under-represented community and sends a message that uniting fashion, science, and business is an attainable goal. Chicago is known for its vibrant food scene, and now, with RYG, it can explore the flavors of the optical world, offering customized lens options that go beyond traditional corporate-driven optics.
A store like RYG stands for the uniqueness and distinction of independent eyewear brands, focusing on both fashion and functionality. It represents an under-represented community and sends a message that uniting fashion, science, and business is an attainable goal. Chicago is known for its vibrant food scene, and now, with RYG, it can explore the flavors of the optical world, offering customized lens options that go beyond traditional corporate-driven optics.
Tell us something about the collections you keep in your store. Which are the latest ones you loved the most and decided to take?
The collections at RYG are not confined to specific brands but rather address different fashion concerns such as material, story, and expressiveness. Some of my favorite brands include Kuboraum, Lucas De Staël, Nina Mur, Cazal, and Blake Kuwahara.
The collections at RYG are not confined to specific brands but rather address different fashion concerns such as material, story, and expressiveness. Some of my favorite brands include Kuboraum, Lucas De Staël, Nina Mur, Cazal, and Blake Kuwahara.
Read more on the hard copy
